Ladakh...Journey to Heaven

Friday, August 3, 2012 [Leh-Chang La- Pangong tso]

I had chosen Pangong as the last place in our itinerary due to two main reasons – one, from an acclamatisation perspective, it was too high – we had to spend a night at 4200m, so it was best we kept it at the end. Second, the beauty of Pangong on the pictures was so fascinating – if we visited any other place after this, we’d feel that they were nothing compared to Pangong

One problem in Ladakh is wherever you go, you had to come back to Leh and then head towards your new destination – there were no interconnecting roads. Completely understand, since the terrain was as such. However, from Nubra Valley to Pangong, there is a route – with not so great routes. One via Shyok and Agham – the river breaches and bridge here breaks often, so you’d never know until you reach the bridge. Second, via Wari la (which is a very challenging pass to ascend) and Shakti village. Though I had researched all this, it being our first trip, I decided not to take any chances and preferred the traditional route of returning to Leh and then proceeding.

We were all ready by 530 AM and checked out of Karzoo. We proceeded on the Leh-Manali Highway upto Karu, which is 35kms / 45mins from Leh. On the way, you could visit Shey and Thiksey monsastery. Stanzen had warned us about a Pagal Nala – as sun rises and snow starts melting, glaciers get on to the road and it may not be possible for us to cross them. Hence, it is advisable to get into Pangong before 11am to be safe.  We stopped at Karu first, in a roadside Dhaba, has gobbled hot hot aloo parathas with pickles. We submitted copies of our permit in the check post at Karu and proceeded to Chang-La, the world’s third highest motorable road at 17340 ft (Second highest is Tanglang La on the tso moriri route). It was unusually cold today. Considering that Khardungla is a 1000ft more than this, we were quite not prepared for the cold. We got out of our car at Changla for a cup of tea, and clicking some pictures in the cold.

We then continued our drive to Pangong Tso. On the way, We saw a few Yaks – and some camps offering Yak ride. We decided that we’d go on the rides the next day while returning from Pangong. On the way, there was clear water flowing alongside the road, with a lot of wild flowers (yes, like a valley of flowers).

We also found marshy ponds that were blue-green in colour. Any by about 1045am, we got the first glimpses of the Pangong, and we cheered in unison.  We stopped at the first camps bordering Pangong – Lukung. There was an eatery and also some camps. And make-shift, almost open-air restrooms.  We ate Maggi there and enquired about accommodation.They said it would be 100/- per person plus food.  (if you recall, we couldn’t get the lady where we had booked our homestay – and currently, no signal in our phones. The homestay was at a village called ‘Maan’ – it definitely would have been an excellent scenic drive along the banks of Pangong had we stayed there; to add to this, the road to Maan was cut by a madly flowing rivulet). We asked him to reserve 4 beds for us. If you are the adventurous type, you could also bring your own camping equipment and camp anywhere you like!! 

We clicked a few pictures of Pangong – all of us were captivated by its beauty. As the sun shone, we could see multiple shades of blue on the lake. And as the sun got obscured by a cloud, we could see yet another set of colours. And it was an added advantage that we were there by 11am - we had the entire day to enjoy its beauty and probably, a few hours of the next day also (most people make pangong a one day trip from Leh. We chose to stay overnight). We clicked a few pictures and Stanzen suggested we should go for a drive on the banks – something which we all instantly agreed and hopped into the car.

The drive was absolutely scenic – a wide ocean running alongside, and multiple shades of blue. Nothing around except the mountains and the lake – no one else except your group – and no other sound except that of the wind, so strong a sound that even the sound of the diesel vehicle could not be heard. We drove on till Spangamik, another village on the banks of the lake, which also had a camping site and a restaurant. The lake is almost 130 kms long of which only 50odd kms is in India (rest is in China).  All along, the lake with pristine blue(s) was giving us company.  And every time I took a look at the lake, the colour would change (atleast, I felt that way). Stanzen stopped a little ahead of the village. We clicked a few pictures there, and ahead we could see the spot where the scene in 3-idiots was shot. We informed Stanzen that we would go till there and get back in some time. One of the tyres was punctured, and Stanzen said he’d replace it with the stephni by the time we returned.